What "full coverage" does and does not pay
Start with the part people get wrong: comprehensive and collision pay actual cash value, meaning the depreciated market value of your car at the moment of the loss, minus your deductible. They do not pay your loan balance, your purchase price or the cost of an equivalent new model. Triple-I notes that most cars lose about 20% of their value in the first year (Triple-I on gap insurance), which is exactly how upside-down loans happen.
Second: liability is still capped at the limits you chose. A "full coverage" policy sold at your state's minimum liability limits is one serious injury away from exposing your savings, because the 2024 average auto bodily injury liability claim was $28,278 and severe claims run into six and seven figures. Full coverage protects your car. Higher liability limits and umbrella insurance protect your net worth.
Third, here is what a standard policy generally will not do:
- Pay for mechanical breakdown, wear, rust or a failed transmission
- Cover personal belongings stolen from inside the car (that is a homeowners, condo or renters claim)
- Cover a vehicle used for delivery or rideshare without the right endorsement
- Waive your deductible because the other driver was at fault, though most carriers refund it after they recover from the other insurer
The one thing worth checking today. Pull your declarations page and look for two numbers: your bodily injury limits and your comprehensive/collision deductibles. If liability reads 25/50 and your deductible reads $250, you have bought the coverage backwards. Raising the deductible usually funds a jump to 100/300 limits at close to the same total premium.
Full coverage vs. liability only: what the gap costs
Roughly 80% of insured drivers buy comprehensive and 77% buy collision on top of liability, per Triple-I's analysis of NAIC data. The extra premium is not trivial, but it is smaller than people assume, because comprehensive is genuinely cheap relative to what it covers.
| Coverage set | What it pays | Typical share of premium | Who it fits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Liability only | Other people only, up to your limits | The single largest line on most policies | Paid-off cars worth under roughly $4,000 with cash on hand to replace them |
| Liability + comprehensive | Other people, plus theft, hail, fire, animals and glass on your car | Comprehensive averages a little over $134 per year, per Triple-I | Older cars in hail, theft or deer country where a crash payout would be small anyway |
| Full coverage (all three) | Other people, plus crash and non-crash damage to your car | Collision averages about $290 per year, per Triple-I | Financed or leased cars, and any car you could not replace out of pocket tomorrow |
Two structural points. Lenders and lessors almost always require comprehensive and collision for the life of the loan, so "full coverage" is a contractual obligation, not a preference, until the title is yours. And carriers price the physical damage half far more aggressively against each other than the liability half, so shopping tends to move full coverage quotes more than liability-only quotes. That is the whole reason our auto quote flow asks for your VIN and garaging address before it asks anything else.
When to drop comprehensive and collision: the 10% rule
The standard test, and the one Triple-I endorses when it tells drivers to "calculate whether purchasing collision or comprehensive coverage makes economic sense" on an older car, works like this: add your annual comprehensive and collision premium, then compare it with 10% of the car's actual cash value minus your deductible. If the premium is bigger, you are paying more each year than the most the coverage could ever hand you, spread across a normal claim cycle.
A worked example. Your 2013 sedan books at $4,200. Your deductible is $1,000, so the maximum a total loss pays is about $3,200. Ten percent of $4,200 is $420. If comp and collision cost you $520 a year, you are on the wrong side of the line. Drop them, bank the $520, and self-insure the car.
- Run the test annually. Your car depreciates every year while your physical damage premium usually does not fall as fast.
- Check the title first. You cannot drop these coverages on a financed or leased vehicle, and doing so triggers force-placed insurance at a much higher cost.
- Keep comprehensive longer than collision. It is the cheaper of the two and covers hail, theft and animal strikes, which do not care how old the car is.
- Have the replacement money. Dropping coverage only works if losing the car tomorrow is an inconvenience rather than a crisis.
- Do not drop liability to save money. The NAIC reports 15.4% of motorists were uninsured in 2023, and uninsured driving carries license suspension, SR-22 filings and years of surcharges.
If you are already in surcharge territory, our high-risk auto insurance page covers the nonstandard market and how to climb back to standard rates.
Gap insurance, rental reimbursement and towing
Gap insurance
Gap covers the difference between what your carrier pays for a totaled car and what you still owe the lender. Triple-I says adding it alongside comprehensive and collision typically costs $50 to $150 a year, while buying it standalone can cost up to 10 times more than the endorsement. It flags four situations where it is usually worth having: a down payment under 20%, a loan term of 60 months or longer, a vehicle that depreciates faster than average, and negative equity rolled in from a previous loan. Leases generally require it outright.
Two cautions. Gap pays the loan gap, not your deductible in every case, and dealer-sold gap products are often financed at the loan's interest rate, which quietly adds to the cost. Ask your carrier for a quote before you sign in the finance office.
Rental reimbursement
Usually $30 to $75 a day up to a 30-day cap, for a few dollars a month. It only triggers on a covered physical damage claim, which means it is useless if you drop comprehensive and collision. With average collision severity now above $5,400, repairs routinely run past two weeks in the current parts environment, so this is one of the better dollar-for-dollar add-ons.
Roadside assistance and towing
Typically a few dollars per vehicle per month. Check for duplication first: many credit cards, new-car warranties and auto clubs already include towing.
State variation matters here. Deductible rules, glass coverage, diminished value claims and total loss thresholds are all set at the state level. In most states a carrier declares a total loss when repair costs plus salvage exceed a fixed percentage of actual cash value, and that percentage ranges from roughly 50% to 100% depending on where you live. Ask us what applies in your state before you set a deductible.
Sources & further reading
- Triple-I (III.org) — Facts + Statistics: Auto insurance
- NAIC — 2023 Auto Insurance Database Average Premium Supplement (released July 2025)
- Triple-I — What is covered by collision and comprehensive auto insurance?
- Triple-I — What is gap insurance?
- Triple-I — Auto insurance basics: understanding your coverage
- NAIC — Insurance Topics: Uninsured Motorists (updated July 2025)